For sale: DIN type C adapter from Weiler

April 22, 2014, 11:24 am

≫ Next: voest lathe sans gearbox

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I have an essentially brand new adapter for a 6" PB Set Rite chuck. It was probably used for about 4 hours.
I changed lathes and now have a D1-4 spindle. It was on my Weiler Matador. PB made this to order and its finished way nicer than the common in stock ones.

Below copied from MSC:

1 92380344 none 1 $599.05 $599.05

I'll take $250.00 plus shipping

pjpickard AT gmail.com

If you really need/want pics I can get them...

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voest lathe sans gearbox

April 26, 2014, 9:19 pm

≫ Next: Mori MS1250 spindle bearing preload?

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I am looking at a voest lathe that is missing the motor and gearbox. In fact all that is left down there is five small A section vee belts. Gearbox looks perfect inside.
I am wondering if one could build a variable speed drive off the shelf connected to a new motor. I expect I need at least 5 hp.
Has anyone any experience with installing snomobile style variable speeds like Lovejoy or similar? The boat anchor would be about 1500 then cost of drive, motor, vee pulley, shafting, bearings, steel plate, and control.
Is this practical or should I just walk away. I am retired so my time is cheap.

Mori MS1250 spindle bearing preload?

May 3, 2014, 2:32 pm

≫ Next: for sale Schaublin 125, Schaublin 135, Schaublin 150, EWAG WS11

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Hi everyone,
Can anyone tell me the proper procedure for setting the preload on the spindle bearings on my Mori? I've heard everything from "hand-tight, then a couple good whacks on the hook-spanner with a brass hammer" to "put a chuck on it (they didn't say what size...), give it a spin and it should make 1.5 revolutions"... Neither sounded very good. Hoping you guys could help.
Thanks a bunch,
James

for sale Schaublin 125, Schaublin 135, Schaublin 150, EWAG WS11

May 14, 2014, 11:14 pm

≫ Next: Searching for a Cazeneuve HBX 360 Toolpost & Manual

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I have good machine for sale:
Schaublin 125 - 4 machine
Schaublin 135 - 1 machine
Schaublin 150 - 2 machine
EWAG WS 11 - 2 machine

In very good conditions.
i whant to sell all machine, not one

Searching for a Cazeneuve HBX 360 Toolpost & Manual

May 23, 2014, 4:56 pm

≫ Next: Whacheon WL-435 Brake pads automobile equivalents

≪ Previous: for sale Schaublin 125, Schaublin 135, Schaublin 150, EWAG WS11

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Anyone out there have a manual or toolpost for this machine? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Marc mullinmach@msn.com

Whacheon WL-435 Brake pads automobile equivalents

May 25, 2014, 8:31 am

≫ Next: Table in-out feed screw Scahublin SV52 milling machine

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I've seen lots of references to the brake pads on the Whacheon / Mori Seiki lathes being automobile pads but have never seen any references to exactly what pad they are. I took my old worn out ones to a good old school auto parts store and they matched them in the book to FMSI D51 pads. All of the specs, measurements, application, and interchange information for these pads is at this link:

FMSI D51 Brake Pad Set

I just got finished putting a pair of GDB535 pads (one of the interchange numbers) on my Whacheon WL-435 and they dropped right it.

These probably fit the Mori Seiki MS series lathes too. Hope this helps somebody else out.

Curiously, these aren't pads for a Datsun as was most often suspected. Datsun used pads of a very similar design, but were smaller.

Jeff

Table in-out feed screw Scahublin SV52 milling machine

May 28, 2014, 5:47 am

≫ Next: schaublin 70

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Hello there,

I am restoring a Schaublin SV52 milling machine and am now considering if I need to replace the 3mm pitch screw for the table in/out feed. To me it seems likely that this is not original as it is not an ACME/trapezoidal screw. Or could this be original (being the only feed screw I have seen in machines like this..?) I can also say that the end stop is missing and that the nut carrier is broken.. hence leading me to think something has happened with the assembly.

Possibly a stupid question, but is there anything to gain (accuracy) on making the screw myself (IF I am able..) as opposed to bying a stock ACME precision rod (but having to pin the ends with the needed ends etc..)?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzzt...ature=youtu.be
(sorry for the lousy pics..)

Kind rgds
Jan Sverre

schaublin 70

May 29, 2014, 8:42 am

≫ Next: Asking the choir...should I try to buy a lightly used, well treated Schaublin 102?

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I recently obtained a used Schaublin 70 lathe. It is not the latest boxy model where the motor is integral to the headstock. It has the traditional look to it. The headstock is the type in which the pulley is driven from below. There are NO oil nipples for the bearings. I was told this is a newer model . Is this correct? Does this mean the bearings are sealed and do not require any maintenance?

Thank You

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Asking the choir...should I try to buy a lightly used, well treated Schaublin 102?

June 9, 2014, 8:43 pm

≫ Next: Graziano Sag 14 - Details and dimensions on gear change wheel

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My work might be getting rid of a nice, later model, 102...the parent company is Swiss so I guess that's how it found it's way to Denver.
If I decide to get it, what should I look for in bad points?
In good points?
I only got a glance at it today, but I can go look tomorrow...or later this week, and I'd like to know what I'm looking at.
These are roughly equivalent to a Hardinge DV59 yes?
What is better, what is worse?
Thanks.

Graziano Sag 14 - Details and dimensions on gear change wheel

June 11, 2014, 4:59 am

≫ Next: Is this deal too good to be true for a Whacheon WL-435?

≪ Previous: Asking the choir...should I try to buy a lightly used, well treated Schaublin 102?

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Hello guys
I am proud to finally have something to post about. As usual - long time lurker etc.
I now have running my Sag 14 that I bought some 6 months ago. I had to make a RPC first.
I believe the machine is not in bad condition in the critical areas but it has had a poor repaint and a bit of neglect although everything works as it should. One thing that is obviously missing (presumed destroyed) is the main gear change wheel - that is the plastic (? Well not metal) round handle that also includes the speed numerals. It has the steel track and detent that the handle mounts on. It changes gears correctly.
I have the manual and I have got a price from the member in Europe - who was very helpful but for the price I figured a great project would be to make one from aluminium (or aluminum in those places where they have soder instead of solder). This way the mill and rotary table would get a work out as well
I would really appreciate if some of you would take a few measurements and some close up photos and post or forward them to me. Please.:) My machine has the two speed motor so the wheel should have two speeds marked. I have some images from the net but not much detail.
I will post some photos of what I have.
I would be interested in opinions as to whether I should keep it original looking or perhaps change it from finger grip type detente to perhaps three short handles like the feed gear selectors??
Anyway thanks in anticipation.

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Is this deal too good to be true for a Whacheon WL-435?

June 14, 2014, 9:21 am

≫ Next: Manual for Studturn (colchester clone)

≪ Previous: Graziano Sag 14 - Details and dimensions on gear change wheel

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Hey all,

I'm a long time lurker and new member. I'm currently in school pursuing an engineering degree and planning on buying an engine lathe when I graduate in the very near future (1-2 years). So, I like to peruse around the web looking for deals and I came across the Whacheon for what seems super cheap.

It states that it is in good working condition and that it comes with the DRO, tailstock, and toolpost holder and that is about it as far as the description goes. It looks in decent shape on the photos and this model is the perfect match of what I am looking for in regards to center distance, swing, and spindle bore diameter. It is also similar in size and arrangement to the Victor 1640 I use in the shop for school and personal projects. I missed the preview period by one day, so I don't have the opportunity to inspect it in person and I am kicking myself for that.

Long story short, would this be too good of a deal to pass up if I bid up to like $X for it? Or is too much of a risk that I could end up with junk even at that price? The auction closes on Monday and it has already reached it's reserve and has been sitting there for over a day. From my other searching of used WL-435's, they go anywhere from $5500 to $7900 in working condition. If I won it, my brother would be more than happy to let me park it in his garage(provided he hooks it up and gets to use it as he fancies) until I have more permanent digs to store it. I feel the other bidders will probably pass me up anyways and could still walk out with a killer deal, but it doesn't hurt to try.

Does anyone have any experience with these machine specific auction sites?

Thanks for any words of wisdom you guys can offer,

Jon

Manual for Studturn (colchester clone)

June 18, 2014, 1:57 pm

≫ Next: De Valliere 140 alignment and unknown handle

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I just took a look at a ENR Studturn. Some searching tells me ENR is a dutch importer of the taiwanese colchester clones.
Should be picking up the lathe in the next days.

The owner doesn't have a manual and part of the feed / screw info plate is gone. Does anyone have a manual?

cheers, jochem.

De Valliere 140 alignment and unknown handle

June 25, 2014, 9:46 am

≫ Next: Tool Post Grinder Listing

≪ Previous: Manual for Studturn (colchester clone)

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Hi
I decided that when I will be old enough I'll by my self a lathe and a mill and so I did. Because I lack the experience I ask the forum how to align the head stock. I noticed that when I cut to the diameter needed the nearest to the tail stock is larger (0.02mm/on 6cm) in diameter. actually is my conclusion right?
the second question is what is the large handle on top of the headstck (on top the cover) when you pull it some kind of pin gets out and all most disturbs the spindle.
thank's Tal

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Tool Post Grinder Listing

June 25, 2014, 5:56 pm

≫ Next: Schaublin 102 N-VM

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I finally got around to listing this tool post grinder that belongs to an older gent with medical issues. ( Brain tumor ) I listed it on Ebay and it will start tonite around 9:00 p.m. I don't want to violate any rules doing this, I just want to alert some folks that might be looking for one and I didn't want not to tell everybody.Here is what the fellow had to say about this. I will post the ebay link on my next posting. Not sure how to go back and forth. The fellow wrote.I have a few more grinding wheels not shown. I have more pics.


Schaublin 102 Grinding Attachment for Tool Maker and Watchmakers Lathes.

Here we have a beautiful genuine swiss tool grinding attachment for the 102 lathes.This grinder can easily be adapted to most any lathe ( Habegger , Emco - Maier , Mirkron , Jet , Wahli , etc.) with a swing of 7,8 9, or even 10 inches. As you can see in the photos the quill is capable of being moved in any direction including an adjustment in degrees which gives a unlimited range of grinding possibilities. The grinding quill is top quality swiss made. The carbide-faced spindle has a maximum speed of 12,000 r.p.m. To drive the tool-post-mounted grinding attacment (included) a drive (photo) can be mounted on any lathe by the use of a cast-iron trumpet bracket that can be bolted on any flat surface. It is using a 150 r.p.m. 0.2 kw motor with a special switch carried an a bracket that clamps to the vertcalbar of the belt tensioning attachment. The unit is driven by a 6 mm polycord belt.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:L:LCA:US:1123

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Schaublin 102 N-VM

July 6, 2014, 7:05 am

≫ Next: H.E.S. 550 lathe repair

≪ Previous: Tool Post Grinder Listing

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sale my Schaublin 102 N-VM. In good working conditions

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H.E.S. 550 lathe repair

July 8, 2014, 9:32 pm

≫ Next: 1977 Mori-Seiki TL-5 CNC Lathe

≪ Previous: Schaublin 102 N-VM

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I posted this in the general forum but figured it might be worth posting here as well.
Working on a H.E.S. 550 lathe with an apron feed problem. I found the cams for the feed control levers were worn out so I replaced them. After reassembling I found that the feed is very intermittent for both the carraige feed and the cross feed and jumps in rapid traverse. Clutches engage solidly but there is a disconnect between the feedscrew and the clutches, in feed mode the feed shaft turns fine. Talking to Brian at K & D where I get my parts he mentioned that he sells a lot of keys for the feed rod. Has anybody done this job? And no, Brian doesn't have a clue.
Before you tell me to pull the screw and feed rod and drop the apron, well I've done that to dozens of lathes. This beast is built totally different than anything I have ever worked on before, in rapid the feed rod shifts to the left by a ramp clutch on the rod support down by the apron. Rapid motor is down at that end to, it disconnects the feed box with the ramp clutch. Very complex and the parts manual totally sucks. Looking for someone that has actually laid hands on one.
Thank you

Bill

1977 Mori-Seiki TL-5 CNC Lathe

July 24, 2014, 4:03 pm

≫ Next: Need Help: Hi Cell 23II MP Scale Removal

≪ Previous: H.E.S. 550 lathe repair

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Hello ladies and fellers,

First post, I'll do some sort of introduction post later but I have a burning question in the mean time. I'm thinking about purchasing (for a nearly negligible cost) a '77 TL-5A CNC lathe off my previous employer. I know the machine runs well, and I know the history and parts replaced, including spindle bearings about 12 years ago. I have all the manuals, a 10" Kitagawa hydraulic chuck and a bit of tooling.

I've used this machine and SL-4's for years, but the TL-5A has a Fanuc 6T controller w/o display. There are only rows of LED's and a single line numerical display to tell you something's going to go south. As I understand it, the 6T had an option for a CRT display.

I'd like to add a display to this machine. What are my options?

Thanks in advance.

Need Help: Hi Cell 23II MP Scale Removal

July 25, 2014, 3:59 am

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We have a Hitachi Seiki Hi Cell 23II bar feed lathe. We need to get at the MP scale/stater ring behind the spindle motor. We took a few things off on the back. Now the problem is there is a threaded collar on the hollow spindle shaft. The collar is locked in place by three set screws. Between where the set screw sit and the shaft are 1/8 thick by ½ square pieces of steel that protect the threaded shaft. The set screws are loose. The thing that is holding us back is how to remove the square pieces. Can not un-thread the collar until these three pieces are out of there. There is no way to get a hold of the pieces and pull them out. Anybody got a clue how to remove these pieces and loosen the collar.

BTW, if the MP scale/stater ring is bad. It has to be make and that will take 4 months.

Thanks for comments and time.

Jimbo

Avia milling machine

August 1, 2014, 10:12 am

≫ Next: how to clean the lathe

≪ Previous: Need Help: Hi Cell 23II MP Scale Removal

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I saw one of these today...wasn't able to get a good look, it was blocked by several other machines. Had a vise and a bunch of toolholders, some "surface rust", looks like it has not been used much for several years.

Not much info on them here...it looks like the one linked to in the first post in this thread:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...c-25-a-207608/

I think it can be had for not much, but the owner might be trading for a BP.

Any thoughts on these?

Thanks,

Paul

dang it I put this in the wrong forum...was supposed to go into Deckel, et al...

how to clean the lathe

August 2, 2014, 6:43 am

≫ Next: Any good source for Colchester 6500 half nut?

≪ Previous: Avia milling machine

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I know that it is probably a trivial question but what is the most efficient way for cleaning the lathe specially the shavings (I hope it is the correct word)?
:nono: