Chuck with DIN mount, where to buy?

April 12, 2013, 10:02 am

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I'm looking to get a chuck for my Weiler Matador. I can't find anyone who has the DIN mount.
I'd like a 3 jaw "set tru" with removable jaws, also eventually a 4 jaw.


Thanks,

Paul

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Owning A Weiler

April 14, 2013, 5:45 am

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Good day all;
I am contemplating purchase of a 70's era LZ 280 and was unsure of parts availability for a 40 y.o. machine. I've tried searching online for info but there doesn't seem to be very many of the older models still being used in this country. I do not speak German either so even examining an exploded diagram can be confusing. I'm to make the drive over to evaluate the machine next week and wanted to get as much info as I could to help make the purchase decision.

The LZ 280 appears to be a small, well made toolroom lathe from what I read but, much like some other machines, if parts are difficult/expensive to obtain then I need to know this. If my only reading reference materials are in a language that I can't read then I need to know this too.

The model I'm considering has original tooling with it (don't know just how much) is listed in decent shape, and isn't very expensive. I can estimate the condition of machinery (I'm a 58 y.o. toolmaker) but that's not the same as owning one. If any of you own one I'd greatly appreciate your opinion, information, or anything related you would care to contribute. Thank you for your time.

Schaublin 102VM/120VM parts for sale

April 15, 2013, 7:29 am

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I am helping one of my customers selling some Schaublin parts.

1. Chuck flange diameter 143 mm for 102VM/120VM with W25 spindle nose (M47,6x3, diameter 48 mm).
2. 2 pc Driving plate/Chuck flange diameter 120 mm for 102VM/120VM with W25 spindle nose (M47,6x3, diameter 48 mm).
3. Face plate 200 mm for 102VM/120VM with W25 spindle nose (M47,6x3, diameter 48 mm).
4. Drawbar with two depth stop for 120VM with W25 spindle nose. Length to bearing 415 mm.
5. Fixed center W25
6. 760 mm rack (120VM?), 3 W25 collets, cooling pipe line

/Ola
Sweden

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Bantam spindle bearing issue?

April 25, 2013, 6:57 am

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Hi guys,

I've recently acquired a little Colchester Bantam 1600 mk1. It's come from a local university auction and seems to be in pretty good shape. I've been progressively stripping and cleaning parts, and have now worked my way to the headstock. Which brings me to the spindle bearings... The spindle spins smooth and free, but I picked up a faint rattle from the front bearing. On closer inspection I noticed that one of the rollers isn't rotating at all!:eek: Every time it reaches the peak of the bearing it rocks a little then continues back around without any rotation. By the way, these are the hollow roller, Gamet tapered roller bearings.
I've attempted to measure the run-out on the spindle nose taper ( D1-3 type) and its reading at around 4-5 microns (0.004-0.005mm), however the reading was quite erratic, which I'm assuming could just be wear and tear on the spindle nose. Luckily i had the headstock open and striped out, and was able to get the indicator on the spindle surface just behind the front bearing. I've measured 0.002mm of run-out, which doesn't seem all that bad, considering that a roller is not spinning!:confused:
Now to my questions:

1. First of all, what could be the reason why one roller isn't spinning at all, whilst not really affecting the bearings accuracy?
2. Is it damaged beyond repair?( new one costs around $400)
3. To replace/inspect the bearing , the inner race of the rear bearing would have to be pressed off. Is it possible to do this without causing damage to the bearing? ( would the rollers and races' be able to survive being pressed off the shaft? it only has around 15mm of travel until its freed from the shaft)

I think that's about it. Any advice/insight would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.



(front bearing)

(rear bearing)

Mori MS-1050 information, manuals?

April 25, 2013, 2:04 pm

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Hi all-

I have a Mori MS-1050 coming in here shortly that I purchased sight unseen :nutter:

Well, knowing that Greer is the guy to call, I called, and was promptly let known that I was on my own since this lathe is no longer "supported". Being "that guy" who gambles on beat up machines at times, I gambled on this one hoping for the best. I mean, it's a Mori, right? :)

I know that a few folks here also have the 1050 and have read the limited threads on this model, but am wondering if some kind soul would happen to have manuals or parts diagrams for this machine?

If so, I'll ship you a case of your favorite beer if you can point me to the direction of such documentation.

And, yes, pictures coming ;)

Thanks!
Dood

Graziano spindle bush replacement.

April 26, 2013, 6:48 pm

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I finally had my machinist friend machine a new bronze spindle bush for my Graziano SAG 180 lathe. This guy has extensive experience making and fitting tapered prop shafts to propellors including hand scraping the tapers to fit as well as making bronze bushes including those for large ocean going vessels.

The original bush had seized on the spindle due to someone bypassing the oil supply probably to "fix" an oil leak :nutter: as shown in the third photo. The original also had the threads broken off from someone hammering on the fragile cast phosphor bronze, my attempts to silver solder steel threaded sections failed and resulted in the bushing curling into a three leaf clover profile as internal stresses relaxed. The new bush is made from LG2 bronze or red brass which is softer but has better embedment of particles and is less prone to seizing than phosphor bronze.

Once the continuous cast blank was bored to the same size as the spindle shaft (it's adjustable over and under size with the combination of the tapered socket and wedge key) it was fitted to a centre ground steel mandrel with a milled pocket below where the key socket will be milled. The mandel was centred and the outside of the bush skimmed parallel (to 0.001mm!) and concentric to the mandrel so as to provide convenient reference surfaces. The Colchester Master has enough compound travel to machine the entire taper without resorting to fitting the taper attachment to the lathe. It took many trial fits and blueing to get the the angle correct and the rear surface of the cast iron socket only mated for a narrow ring and a small area top and bottom: this was found to be due to someone doing some gouging of the iron socket and making it slightly oval for reasons known only to them.

At that point the decision was made to lap the bush taper and iron socket with 900 grit silicon carbide for a better fit. Oil galleries were plugged (They are all straight through holes so wire and cleaning cloth can be poked through later to clean them) and the two were lapped together. Each time the bronze showed mating with the two x one inch wide rings of the cast iron socket, a new taper would be machined to true up the bronze surface and the fit checked with blueing. The machining had the effect of moving the taper a little further along the bush towards the position of the final surface in the middle of the bush. I was surprised at how little iron was removed with each "wet" of carbide and most of the wear was on the bronze taper which meant it had to be remachined often after plenty of washing and scrubbing to remove carbide grit.

It took six lapping sessions and truings of the taper to get 270 degrees of good contact for the rear surface with nearly complete contact for the front surface. The iron socket shows the dodgy oil gallery bypass someone gouged in the iron from the pressurised oil gallery to the oil drain hole. The gouge had to be drilled to key in the epoxy and shows the epoxy patch and the drain hole back to the headstock.

The last photo shows the milling of the final split down the middle of the keyway, the continuous cast bronze sprung shut slightly and through pure luck measures only a tiny bit of distortion towards the rear of the bush and which the key can pull back to an accurate circle with very little force (finger tight keyway bolts). We fitted a left over digital angle display I once manufactured years ago as a jury rigged angle readout to allow the milling of the 15 degree sides of the keyway with a straight endmill, it was very handy in the role!. The photo of the new bush alongside the old one show a bit of the bronze's crystalline structure which was revealed by using razor sharp, diamond honed, positive rake carbide tooling. In other shots it looks like galvanised iron in appearance.

I'm thinking of fitting a small external 5 micron cartridge diesel fuel filter assembly after the pump and before the bush as the bush is the only thing the pump feeds after I found a few lumps of black casting sand coming loose inside the headstock and originally painted over by the manufacturer.

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Changing headstock oil, and other lube questions, on a manual Mori Seiki/ Whacheon

April 27, 2013, 1:03 pm

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I've got a Whacheon WL-435 (17x40) and it's time to change the headstock oil. I don't have a manual. The machine does have a plate specifying appropriate oil options. I was planning on buying "Mobil DTE Oil Light" (one of the listed options) as there's a distributer nearby.

I don't see an obvious drain plug. If there is one, where is it? If not, do I remove the top cover and scoop the old oil out, or...?

Also, the lubrication plate specifies the above DTE oil (or equivalent) for the headstock AND GEARBOX. However, a different plate above the fill hole for the gearbox says "WAY LUBE ONLY". I am assuming that by "gearbox" the maker meant the quick change gears, which is what that fill hole feeds. If they meant the speed change gears, those APPEAR to be up in the headstock proper and it'd make sense that they got the DTE. I don't see any separate way to lube the "headstock" from the "gearbox" however if that is the case.

Appreciate any help with this! Thanks.

Cheap Weiler on UK ebay if your quick

April 28, 2013, 4:19 pm

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Weiler LZ280 German toolroom metalcutting lathe | eBay

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Schaublin 70 riser blocks

May 6, 2013, 11:31 am

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Does a riser block for 70 closed headstock model exist? I know there are 102 and
some 70 for older plain bed model.

Can someone please fill out my diagram?

http://i39.tinypic.com/1znszrk.jpg


Is the back mid section of the dovetail the same as the front section on the closed headstock bed of the 70, or do they differ like the 102 model?

I know it's along shot but does anyone have a full 3D CAD file of the riser blocks
by any chance?

Cheers

Schaublin 102-80 questions

May 7, 2013, 7:24 am

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I am getting very close to a deal to buy a 102-80 and have a few questions for the Schaublin guys. I have searched this forum for the answers but could not find them.

1. I saw a thread about the weight of the cabinet mounted machines and thoughts seemed to range from 600 to 1200 pounds. Did anyone ever figure out the weight accurately. My reading of Schaublin various catalogs tells me it is 6-800.

2. Is a single pedal machine always not a clutch and brake machine - the pedal being for changing the belt position? Do two pedal machines always have a clutch/brake on the second pedal?

3. I have been told that the spindle bearings of these machines are extremely reliable, and not to worry about them. True?

4. Can one put a VFD on the motor without any particular complication such as reliability?

5. Is there a reason to choose between the W20 or W25 size machine?

Oil gearpump for Weiler Commodor headstock

May 8, 2013, 6:36 am

≫ Next: WEILER PRIMUS Questions

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Hello,

we have a 70s era Weiler Commodor engine lathe. The gear-pump for circulating oil in the head stock (Spindelkasten) doesn't seem to be working. Does anyone know what is involved in replacing the pump?

-Kurt

WEILER PRIMUS Questions

May 14, 2013, 11:33 am

≫ Next: Schaublin capstan-handle tailstock

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Hi Guys
Trust U are all well and keeping the Forum busy.
We have an option to purchase a WEILER PRIMUS and desperately need a few answers to some serious Questions from U esteemed experienced Folks. The Seller has assured us that the machine is in very good condition. It was brought down to SA from Holland by his father and the "whole was reconditioned, the bedways were reground and the sliders were replaced"
Our problem is that although we are looking for a good accurate COLLET CHUCKING machine, we do require one with a fairly large COLLET capacity. This one has COLLETS from 1 mm to 12 mm only !!!
Now the barrage of questions, if U may.

Does this machine take W23 Collets ???
Are these commonly available in Europe and elsewhere etc. ???
Would we be able to purchase (at a fair price) and use the larger sized COLLETS, say up to 22 mm ??
What sort of CHUCK MOUNTING does this Machine take ???
If it is a CAMLOCK then would we be able to change the CHUCK and use say 5C Collets which we have stacks of ???
Would spares be still available now seeing it is well over THIRTY Years old ???

What we don't know yet is whether this one is GEARED or BELT Driven.
We are waiting for answers to our enquiries.
Attached is a pic of the machine which we hope throws some or more light on the subject !!
Thanks in advance for taking the time to read and respond.
It is immensely appreciated.
LORD BLESS
aRM

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Schaublin capstan-handle tailstock

May 23, 2013, 2:25 pm

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Hi,

I am selling my Schaublin 125 Capstan-handle (2 speed) Tailstock (like new condition).

It was posted in the " for sale or wanted " section but disappeared as i can not find it in the newer for sale or wanted location, so thats why i post it again over here.

This capstan-handle Tailstock with the larger diameter micrometer dial and a No. 3 Morse taper spindle instead of the No. 2 of the standard tailstock.


The asking prize is a bit of an dilemma, but this is a rare and hard to find accessory, especially in this like new condition.

There must be Schaublin experts over here that can tell what this was selling for when still being sold by Schaublin.

My location is the Netherlands, so most likely this would be interesting for European members, as shipping costs to the USA will only makes this accessory overpriced.

I don't have a fixed prize, so make me a good offer but this in no "el cheapo" part

thanks,
hk51

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Schaublin 102n faceplates and tripan holder for sale

May 23, 2013, 6:05 pm

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I have 2 faceplates for a 102 n and a tripan tool holder. Will ship in a medium priority mail package. $100 for everything pictured. Email me at legacymachine@gmail.com if interested.

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Cazeneuve HBX-360 'curved nuts', one of my first little projects.

June 5, 2013, 5:02 am

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Last year I bought a Cazeneuve HBX-360 which I restored to a working condition. The lathe is not entirely complete, but what is there works perfectly and the lathe is accurate.
One of the parts that was missing were the 'curved nuts' which are used to clamp a hydraulic tracer unit at the back of the sled. After asking for a quote with the local caz dealer, which came to € 45,- a piece (!!), I decided to try to make them myself.

Because I'm a software engineer and not a skilled machinist, it was less than trivial for me how to make these things; the drawing shows the little plan I came up with:




The drawing was made in OpenSCAD (OpenSCAD - The Programmers Solid 3D CAD Modeller).
The actual "drawing" in openscad format, for those interested, can be downloaded here: https://gist.github.com/mrvdb/566899.../ringnuts.scad


Given the tools I have (no dividing head, no mill) this seemed to be a feasible method to get something that would work.

I bought a 13mm disc of S355J2 steel and turned the basic ring on the HBX




After scribing a centerline with the lathe for the position of the holes, I made a little helper paper template as to where the holes were actually needed and drilled and tapped them.





Sawing them in pieces was done with a saw arbor, which was actually my first project on this lathe:




In the background of that last picture the slot in which the nuts are to be used is just visible.

After cleaning them up by hand, here's the end result:

and of course there are 5 sets of 4 which are leftovers, because of the way I made them. If there's anyone interested I'd be happy to send them at cost.

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Mori MS-850/1050/1250 high/low speed shifter problems?

June 7, 2013, 11:47 am

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Hi all-

We have a 1050 that has a low 4-digit serial. It has a broken high/low shifter. The intermediate gear was stuck driving the low gears and we had to "convince" it to move to the high gear via a lever inside the headstock (the actual high/low shifter is useless as it's missing the levers and such that interface with the fork (which is still present)). As such, it appears that something's not quite right... Has anyone else had issues with a stuck or very sticky high/low shifter? Shouldn't the gear move pretty smoothly along the spline?

Thanks!
fig

Any Info on this Weiler turret lathe I bought ?

June 11, 2013, 5:53 am

≫ Next: Weiler LZ330 Gear box shear pin?

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I can't seem to find any info at all, nor any model number]
on the machine.

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Weiler LZ330 Gear box shear pin?

June 12, 2013, 6:24 pm

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I have an early model LZ330 without the selector for the input to the feed gearbox. (Yes, I change the gears manually ;-)

Reference the series of photos at the end of this page, Weiler LZ330 Lathe

Unfortuanately, I have not been able to obtain a parts list that includes the gear train details. Also unfortunately, the gearbox input shear pin was missing when I got the lathe, and I've replaced the part three times in the past year or so. Not knowing the original configuration, I've made up a 3mm dia. pins from mild steel (the input shaft is hard!) with a larger 6mm "head" on one end to engage one of the two slots in the input gear carrier sleeve. Thus I have a 3 mm diameter pin in single shear.

With the frequent failures, my most recent replacement was made from drill rod with a pressed on 6 mm driving "head". Still single shear.

I would like to know what the OEM configuration for this part is.

Perhaps the original design is a "soft" pin in double shear. i.e. two heads. That would require some sort of retainer I suppose.

Assistance welcome!

Cal

SAG 508 feed box cover 10 shifting forks... assembly

June 20, 2013, 10:41 am

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I decided yesterday that I would reseal the cover on my feed box. It came off easily on two long pins I threaded and inserted in the bolt holes. The forks unfortunately are top heavy and flopped over so putting it back and getting the forks to align to the gears is frustrating to say the least. I have resorted to bending wires in a "U" to hold adjacent forks upright and tied strings to them so that I could retreive them when the cover is almost in. I tried grease in the fork pin holes but the grease is not stiff enough to hold. So far every attempt came close but one of the ten forks tilted and the cover stopped.
Any suggestions? I am wondering how those Italians put it together in the factory.

Mori Seiki follow rest on Craigslist

June 20, 2013, 7:29 pm

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Anyone need one? No connection to this.

Moriseiki Lathe Follow Rest for MR2000