Does anybody know who is the manufacturer of these collets?
Diameter just above the thread is 25mm.
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wiklis
Diameter just above the thread is 25mm.
wiklis
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Unknown collets
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Lorch Collet Replacement??
So, a collet for my Lorch AV1-K broke. I would like to replace it.
Lorch size C, as per pic.
Anybody know where to find one?
Or, anybody happen to know if these are the same or similar to another brand or type? Weiler, Levin, WW, Schaublin... anything?
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Lorch size C, as per pic.
Anybody know where to find one?
Or, anybody happen to know if these are the same or similar to another brand or type? Weiler, Levin, WW, Schaublin... anything?
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Nice Schaublin 70
I recently bought a Schaublin 70 in (almost?) pristine condition
I thought I asked a handsome amount of money for it
But after consulting someone knowlegable in lathes like this I raised my price significantly
What do you guys think of this
Small lathe Schaublin 7 | Veltman Machines
and some pictures of the beast(bug)
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Peter
I thought I asked a handsome amount of money for it
But after consulting someone knowlegable in lathes like this I raised my price significantly
What do you guys think of this
Small lathe Schaublin 7 | Veltman Machines
and some pictures of the beast(bug)
Peter
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1968 102 info needed
Could someone identify this, all I have is this picture. Seller knows nothing about it, There is no tailstock. Maybe it was a turret style originally? The cross slide handle, dial also appears to be missing.
He's only asking $400
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He's only asking $400
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Schaublin 70 headstock bearing removal
For Schaublin 70's with roller element bearings, the manual recommends cleaning and re-lubing the headstock bearings periodically (every 5 years) and gives instruction on disassembly.
Removal of spindle shaft is quite easy following their detailed directions, the last of which is "then remove the bearings" As the shaft came its not clear to me how to do so.
Thanks
Here's the spindle - anyone know how to remove the bearings?
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On the inboard side, the outer race is left in the headstock. Does this come out?
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Outboard, how is this bearing removed? as its against a shoulder, there is no way to press on it from the other side except on the inner race
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Removal of spindle shaft is quite easy following their detailed directions, the last of which is "then remove the bearings" As the shaft came its not clear to me how to do so.
Thanks
Here's the spindle - anyone know how to remove the bearings?
On the inboard side, the outer race is left in the headstock. Does this come out?
Outboard, how is this bearing removed? as its against a shoulder, there is no way to press on it from the other side except on the inner race
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Multifix size for Schaublin 135?
I am selling my Leinen and have purchased a nice Schaublin 135 that should deliver this week :) This is all very good but I need to be sure I should be selling my Multifix size A with the Leinen and not keep it for the Schaublin. I have a base with a few holders in size B for the new machine which seem huge but are probably about right. That said the 135 seems to have the a similar issue as my Leinen where the distance between the top of the slide and the centerline isn't really big enough to take full advantage of the large shank cutters you can put in the tool holders. I have some tangential cutters that should work anyway as you can adjust the cutter height considerably.
Any thoughts? Part of me wants to track down the correct size Tripan for the machine although that is probably an expensive proposition. Tripan seems to fall nicely between the Multifix sizes for the A and Aa spit anyway and I am unconvinced by the 40 position rotation.
Thanks
Luke
Any thoughts? Part of me wants to track down the correct size Tripan for the machine although that is probably an expensive proposition. Tripan seems to fall nicely between the Multifix sizes for the A and Aa spit anyway and I am unconvinced by the 40 position rotation.
Thanks
Luke
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HighSpeed Threading attachment for a Graziano Lathe
Hello,
Has anybody seen a "Filomatic", I'm not sure if the spelling is right, but it is a highspeed threading attachment fitted to Graziano Lathes. I'd like to have one.
otrlt
Has anybody seen a "Filomatic", I'm not sure if the spelling is right, but it is a highspeed threading attachment fitted to Graziano Lathes. I'd like to have one.
otrlt
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5C collets on schaublin 135?
I have a set of excellent condition 5C collets but an incomplete set of metric B32, the capacity and accuracy of the two are similar and all it would require is a mt5 to 5C adapter which is inexpensive and as the 5C are shorter some sort of draw bar adapter. Thoughts? I might get lucky and find some B32's which would be better but 5C gives me the option for inexpensive soft collets etc and doesn't preclude the use of B32.
For comparison:
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If anyone is interested I have 20 inch fractional B32's that need a home as metricfation is complete in my shop
L
Sent from my XT1072 using Tapatalk
For comparison:
If anyone is interested I have 20 inch fractional B32's that need a home as metricfation is complete in my shop
L
Sent from my XT1072 using Tapatalk
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Schaublin 135 serial number location?
I can't find a serial number on my machine, I suppose it could have been removed for some reason but that would seem strange. Where should it be? My 102 and 13 have very prominent brass plates with the serial number, voltage etc. I would like to find it for no other reason that getting the records from Schaublin to see what the machines history is.
Thanks
Luke
Thanks
Luke
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Some lube info for Cazeneuve HB 500 please
Some lube info for Cazeneuve HB 500 please.
I can not figure out where the pump is for the saddle lube. I found the reservoir and filled with oil.
Also, what is the knob for, indicated in one of the following photos.
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I can not figure out where the pump is for the saddle lube. I found the reservoir and filled with oil.
Also, what is the knob for, indicated in one of the following photos.
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Cmt ursus (Ferro20) lathes
Hello. I have a lathe CMT Ursus and I have questions. Is there anyone on the forum who owns this lathe or who know this type of lathe. Thank you!!!!
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Schaublin 160 spotted
Guys!
A schaublin 160 was sold on Maarkplats.nl, a well known dutch website a couple of days ago. The seller is Hans Mouthaan, he sold to bakkercncservice.nl, probably another one -man machine services company. Mouthaan has had this lathe for a couple of years, and has done part rebuilding. Before Mouthaan bought it there was some rust damage to the lathe.
I was interested, but too late. Actually I am glad I did not end up with another big project right now...At least that is what I tell myself in hindsight.
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And yes - both tailstocks were included.
Rumor has it that someone from Chicago was interested, but came too late like me.
Ole
A schaublin 160 was sold on Maarkplats.nl, a well known dutch website a couple of days ago. The seller is Hans Mouthaan, he sold to bakkercncservice.nl, probably another one -man machine services company. Mouthaan has had this lathe for a couple of years, and has done part rebuilding. Before Mouthaan bought it there was some rust damage to the lathe.
I was interested, but too late. Actually I am glad I did not end up with another big project right now...At least that is what I tell myself in hindsight.
And yes - both tailstocks were included.
Rumor has it that someone from Chicago was interested, but came too late like me.
Ole
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Schaublin 135 brake adjustment
I haven't found a proper wiring diagram yet, but this is rather simple. There is a wire wound resistor in the electrical cabinet, is this for adjusting the brake? If so which way should I be moving it to get more braking?
Thanks
Luke
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Thanks
Luke
Sent from my XT1072 using Tapatalk
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Hembrug Ergonomic - Feedscrew not working
Hi guys,
looking to help a friend out with his lathe. The feedscrew has stopped, otherwise all seems fine. The lathe is in overall good condition.
Normally I´d assume a shearpin but I´m not sure it can be such a "plain thing" in such a fine machine.
Unfortunately he doesn´t have a manual so here it goes...
- Does anyone have a manual or at least somekind of assembly drawing of the feed gear box? Always nice to have something before digging in.
- Anyone familiar with this lathe and maybe even encountered the same problem and have some good advise?
Cheers
Henrik
looking to help a friend out with his lathe. The feedscrew has stopped, otherwise all seems fine. The lathe is in overall good condition.
Normally I´d assume a shearpin but I´m not sure it can be such a "plain thing" in such a fine machine.
Unfortunately he doesn´t have a manual so here it goes...
- Does anyone have a manual or at least somekind of assembly drawing of the feed gear box? Always nice to have something before digging in.
- Anyone familiar with this lathe and maybe even encountered the same problem and have some good advise?
Cheers
Henrik
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collet closer removal on Schaublin 135
Trying to get the collet closer off since I had to take it part of the way anyway to get a pannal off and I would like to try the normal wheel option. Does the remaining part pull off, screw off etc? I don't see any threads in the drawing?
thanks
Luke
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thanks
Luke
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Schaublin 135 variator removal
So I have a significant oil leak in the variator oil seals and am trying to get the thing out of the machine so I can replace the seals.
I have the shaft moving and have removed belts but can't get it any farther apart. Should I release the stop on the speed control screw so I can lower the assembly far enough to push the shaft all the way out there other side or is there a better way?![]()
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I have the shaft moving and have removed belts but can't get it any farther apart. Should I release the stop on the speed control screw so I can lower the assembly far enough to push the shaft all the way out there other side or is there a better way?
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Schaublin 135 control linkage
Ok sorry for saturating the list with questions but this is how it goes with a new machine :) particularly one that isn't quite exactly as described when it was sold. I am also trying to document the answers so the next person who needs to do this sort of work will find them :)
Anyway I have a fairly early machine around 1970 or '71 as far as I can guess as there is no number plate(it is a generation before Ole's) and the the direction control lever is super sloppy. I pulled the control rods, ball screw cover etc and removed the bottom of the apron. It was a mess in there so getting that cleaned out was a good thing. I now need to figure out how to fix the control slop. From the look of it someone has already replace the key, it has a very slight amount of play but I am not sure how much will add up with all the other slop to cause the problem. The slot in the rod does not appear to be worn and the key on the end of the shaft is a nice tight fit. This would imply that the problem is with the linkage joints or inside the switch box. Any suggestions of how to proceed? Does anyone else know how much slop they have between the lever key and the slot? the key slop is hard to estimate and I can't get a good measurement on the key width but I think it is around 3 degrees of rotation. There is no indication of wear on the key. Should I try to make a new key and housing that fits with no slop at all? I think that would require a gib rather than a key to actually get a better sliding fit. If I manually move the switch lever from the end of the machine it seems to feel fine as one would expect but there must be slop somewhere in the system. The linkage length is adjustable, perhaps that could be useful, the "shift gate" is also somewhat adjustable maybe I can do something with that?
By the way for anyone else working on a 135 to pull the bottom off the apron you only need to remove the bolts at the four corners and the ones in the inside are a bit of a pain in the rear to access, I ended up with my short 6mm wrench again but there is probably a better tool for such things. (picture of the bottom showing the holes is attached)
I was able to pull the control rod without removing lower part of the apron but I think the design might have changed with the next generation of machine as Ole said he needed to access a setscrew at the back of the apron to get the rod out. My control rod is just the rod, there is no sleeve etc which is what I understood to be the case from talking with Ole but I could have been confused.
thanks
Luke
Anyway I have a fairly early machine around 1970 or '71 as far as I can guess as there is no number plate(it is a generation before Ole's) and the the direction control lever is super sloppy. I pulled the control rods, ball screw cover etc and removed the bottom of the apron. It was a mess in there so getting that cleaned out was a good thing. I now need to figure out how to fix the control slop. From the look of it someone has already replace the key, it has a very slight amount of play but I am not sure how much will add up with all the other slop to cause the problem. The slot in the rod does not appear to be worn and the key on the end of the shaft is a nice tight fit. This would imply that the problem is with the linkage joints or inside the switch box. Any suggestions of how to proceed? Does anyone else know how much slop they have between the lever key and the slot? the key slop is hard to estimate and I can't get a good measurement on the key width but I think it is around 3 degrees of rotation. There is no indication of wear on the key. Should I try to make a new key and housing that fits with no slop at all? I think that would require a gib rather than a key to actually get a better sliding fit. If I manually move the switch lever from the end of the machine it seems to feel fine as one would expect but there must be slop somewhere in the system. The linkage length is adjustable, perhaps that could be useful, the "shift gate" is also somewhat adjustable maybe I can do something with that?
By the way for anyone else working on a 135 to pull the bottom off the apron you only need to remove the bolts at the four corners and the ones in the inside are a bit of a pain in the rear to access, I ended up with my short 6mm wrench again but there is probably a better tool for such things. (picture of the bottom showing the holes is attached)
I was able to pull the control rod without removing lower part of the apron but I think the design might have changed with the next generation of machine as Ole said he needed to access a setscrew at the back of the apron to get the rod out. My control rod is just the rod, there is no sleeve etc which is what I understood to be the case from talking with Ole but I could have been confused.
thanks
Luke
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Schaublin 135 cross slide screw replacement?
Looks like I am going to need a new screw for the cross slide at some point, any suggestions? Can you still buy them new? There is corrosion damage to the threads so it doesn't turn as smoothly as it should but is usable as is so it isn't super urgent. I could presumably make a new one although matching the original quality and the spline on the end isn't a simple thing so if I can buy one for a remotely reasonable amount that would be best. Here it is before clean up. Don't use water based coolant or store your machines unheated is the moral of this story. (or buy machines from people who do, I should probably add)
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thanks
Luke
thanks
Luke
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Advice on pulling 135 motor.
I have cleaned out the underside and taken a good long look at both ends of
the motor. It would make working on the brake much easier if I didn't have to do it inside there machine but that motor looks heavy.
What are your suggestions and strategies for removing it. I am tempted to try not to as it must weigh at least 100kg and is far from accessible.
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the motor. It would make working on the brake much easier if I didn't have to do it inside there machine but that motor looks heavy.
What are your suggestions and strategies for removing it. I am tempted to try not to as it must weigh at least 100kg and is far from accessible.
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Warner Electric PB 825 for schaublin 135
Looks like I have bad coil in my brake. I checked with it disconnected with two different meters and get an open circuit, there is a bit of rust on the metal disk so it likely hasn't engaged in some time. guessing I get to buy a new one now :(
The number I see on the housing says, (I think it is hard to read) 53 1-111-006
Can I confirm I am looking for a 90V unit?
Is there anything else I should know.
thanks
Luke
The number I see on the housing says, (I think it is hard to read) 53 1-111-006
Can I confirm I am looking for a 90V unit?
Is there anything else I should know.
thanks
Luke
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